Train Troubles

I actually wrote this one about a month ago, but for [not a very good reason] I’m only posting it now. I’ll post a more general Singapore/Uni piece soon.

5/8/15

As I write this, I’m squeezed into my second-class sleeper bed, listening to the rattle of the train and the stream of Hindi from the man above me. Getting here was an adventure in itself and now I have a little under seven hours until I arrive in Kuala Lumpur – it’s currently 12:44 AM. There’s no internet, I have no idea what I’m going to do once I reach KL, and my travelling companion got stuck in immigration – so I’m alone. And I’m having the time of my life!

I don’t remember when I decided to go to KL before semester starts at NUS; it started off as a joke, then morphed into a specific date via some beers. Me and a friend (Johnathan, from Texas) sat down at 5:30 this afternoon and planned the night’s itinerary. We agreed to campus shuttle to MRT, change a couple of MRT stations and end up in Woodlands, in the north, in time to catch a train over to Malaysia where we’d just booked a couple of sleeper beds. We realised the train from Johor Bahru (the station just across the bridge, in Malaysia) to KL was just four and a half hours away – 10:30!

Hasty plans were made and by 8pm we were on our way to Kent Ridge MRT station – Johnathan with his brand new, top quality mountaineering backpack, and me with a falling-apart brown bag I picked up from someone for free. Well, ‘bag’ is a bit generous, it’s more of a sack with string shoulder straps. ‘Endearingly shit’ is the appropriate term here, I think.

A few MRT transfers later we were on the bus crossing into Malaysia. The road was super jammed and the bus had slowed to a crawl when the doors flew open and people started getting off – you can imagine our confusion. Turns out it was the Singapore-exit checkpoint. Some passport stamps later I was through, but Johnathan was held up – he had used his Singapore passport to enter initially, and was now using his American passport, except he had no disembarkation card. That meant he’d broken a rule… not something you want to do in Singapore. That delayed us by 30 minutes, good thing we had planned a 30 minute buffer.

Back on the bus on the other side, we headed to “JB Sentral” where we apparently had to officially enter Malaysia before we could go to our train platform. Again, I made it through no problem, but Johnathan was held up. Five minutes later, still nothing. Ten minutes, it was 10:10, twenty minutes until the train departure. Johnathan was led away to the ‘office’… still waiting. At 10:20 I approached an officer and we found Johnathan – apparently it would take ‘much longer’ and that I should go to the train platform. We said reluctant goodbyes and made tentative plans to meet again in KL the following day.

It was 10:25 by the time we got back to immigration – “So, uhh… how long to get to train?”
“Ten minis.”

I can imagine the guy watching the CCTV having a great time watching me lope around the station, trying to keep my bag from spilling. At one point in my mad dash one of my flip-flops fell out of the bag, so I rocked up to the platform with 30 seconds to spare holding a solitary shoe. After the obligatory ticket issues, I must have looked quite the sight: a sweaty white guy who had clearly just held up the entire train walking down the nine carriages (mine was the last one, of course), wearing a bag just barely attached to its straps, holding one flip-flop, grinning like an idiot. People were peering out from their curtains, smirking at me – but I didn’t care. Good, clean fun.

The 47 Ringgit (~18 SGD) sleeper bed was actually quite nice, clean, with a light, curtains, long enough for me (6 foot). No power or WiFi, though – so be prepared. The toilets are rudimentary (think ‘ferry’), but refreshments are available: 5 Ringgit for fried rice or Nasi Lemak, 3 Ringgit or 1 SGD for a water, etc. Got talking to a Bangladeshi businessman in the sleeper across from mine, maybe he knows some good food spots in KL.

I plugged in my earbuds and listened to Tame Impala’s new album “Currents” – it’s excellent. Great songs to pull out of the station to. Under the light of the half-moon I can see the silhouettes of trees rolling by, the train comfortingly noisy. So now, for the next day at least, I’m alone and without plans heading to KL. I wonder what I’ll do…

Satay Celup

Satay Celup at Capitol Satay in Melakka is a coveted meal, even by Malaysian standards. Satay Celup (pronounced che-lup) is one of the many hotpot-style, cook-it-yourself experiences very popular in that part of the world. From Korean barbecue to Japanese Sukiyaki (hotpot) to traditional Chinese steamboat, we ate this way more times in a month than I have in probably my whole life in Australia.

I suppose there’s something appealing about seeing the fresh, raw ingredients in front of you and being in complete control of your food. At least, that’s what it seemed like. Personally, I’d rather have the chef cook it the way he wants us to eat it – whether it’s smothered in ghee or glazed in a special sauce or seared for just the right amount of time. Anyway, you might as well just buy the ingredients yourself and do it at home, right?

Seriously - "what the hell is on this thing?"

Bristling with sticks of mystery meat

I think I’m about to eat my words, or at least my thoughts: Satay Celup is the best cook-it-yourself experience I’ve had yet, and it’s utterly impossible to imitate in your own home. Continue reading